Blood, Sweat, and Sawdust

Going against the grain

Tag: hand planing

Jointing Wide Edges by Hand: Companion Video

Some people like to read, others like videos.  So, I made this little companion video for jointing wide edges by hand.  Some people find this a little tricky due to the fact that multiple passes are needed to square the edge to the true face.  I hope you find this useful and entertaining.

Don’t hesitate to leave a comment or suggestion.  Let me know what you think.  Now, get out there and mill some boards.

You can find links to my other Roubo posts here:  Project Index

Rabbet Season


My current workbench has served me well, but it’s severely lacking in its work holding ability. I recently discovered that I had no way to efficiently hold a work-piece while hand-planing rabbets. I had no way of holding the piece without the fence on my skew rabbet plane getting in the way. I wanted to drill a new dog hole closer to the edge, so that the fence would hang off the side while planing. Unfortunately, this isn’t possible due to the threaded bolts that secure the rails to the legs.

Since I can’t really afford to build a nice Roubo bench at the moment, I set out to find a simple, cost-effective solution. What I came up with was a planing stop with a fence on the back edge that extends the length of the stop. This allows me to set my work piece on top and use the fence and a clamp to secure everything. I can align the shoulder with the end of the fence so that nothing gets in the way while planing. It also works great for face jointing wide stock.


Making Stopped Dadoes by Hand

I decided to attempt this for my bench hook after watching Roy Underhill make a stopped sliding-dovetail on an old episode of the Woodwright Shop.  On the show, he mentioned that the same basic principles also applied to stopped dadoes.  You start like you would with any other dado, by marking out all of your lines.  The difference here is that you chisel a small mortise where your dado stops.  This gives your saw a place to go when you are sawing down your walls.

photo 2

Here is a picture for illustration.  My dado is 3/4″ wide and 1/4″ deep.  It stops about 3/4″ from the edge of the board.  My widest mortise chisel is only about 3/8″, so I had to make several passes to width.  I made the mortise slightly deeper than 1/4″, so that I could ensure that my saw made it to the proper depth.  In the end it won’t really matter, as this won’t be seen.

photo 3

Once you’ve made your mortise, it’s simply a matter of sawing to your line, chiseling out the waste, and then progressing to final depth with router plane.  If you don’t a router plane, a chisel could used for the entire process.

Bench Hook Progress

Yesterday, I started work on my bench hook. I am borrowing from a design used by Bad Axe Tools. The fence and hook are made from 1 1/2″ square stock and mate to the work using a bullet-proof dado joint. The entire thing will be 6″ wide by 10 1/2″ long. I am using hickory because it’s dense, and I had stock on hand. I found squaring up the fence and hook to be a real challenge due to the short length. I ended up doing a lot of the work with my block plane, because I found it too difficult to balance my bench planes on the stock. I thicknessed and planed to width using an old Dunlap no. 4. This plane worked remarkably well. Does anyone have any tips for squaring up short stock?


All squared up.


Here’s a friendly reminder to take care when using your marking tools.